Hurricane Season Garage Door Checklist for Myrtle Beach Homeowners
Atlantic hurricane season runs from June 1 through November 30, and the busiest stretch usually falls in late summer and early fall. Your garage door is one of the biggest openings in your home, and how it holds up in high wind matters for more than the garage itself. If the door fails, wind can get inside and put pressure on the structure from within. This checklist is organized into three stages: before the season starts, when a storm is approaching, and right after. It’s the same guidance we give our own neighbors.
Stage 1: Before Hurricane Season (April Through May)
The best time to prepare is before there’s a storm in the forecast, when parts are easy to get and schedules are open.
- Schedule a professional inspection. A yearly check in late spring catches early rust, worn rollers, and loose hardware. See our maintenance page.
- Check the springs and cables. Look for rust, fraying, or a visible gap. A weakened spring or cable is more likely to fail under wind stress. Coastal springs typically last 7-9 years, so if yours is near that age, replace it now. See spring repair.
- Inspect the tracks and brackets. Tracks should be straight, and brackets tight. See track repair.
- Check rollers and hinges. Corroded rollers and hinges compromise the door’s ability to stay in the track under load.
- Test the sensors and auto-reverse. See our safety guide.
- Look at the weatherstripping. Cracked seals let wind-driven rain in. See weatherstripping replacement.
- Know your door’s rating. If your door isn’t wind-rated and you’re within a few miles of the coast, consider an upgrade. See hurricane and wind-rated doors.
- Consider battery backup. If you’re upgrading your opener, ask about battery backup so you can operate the door during outages. See smart openers.
Stage 2: When a Storm Is Approaching
South Carolina evacuations are ordered by the Governor and are mandatory once issued. If you’re leaving, garage prep should be part of your plan, but don’t let it delay your departure.
- Follow official guidance first. Evacuation orders come before any home preparation.
- Clear the garage. Move loose items, chemicals, and anything that could become debris.
- Move vehicles. Park them according to your evacuation and insurance plans.
- Close and lock the door. Make sure the door is fully closed and, if it has a lock, engaged.
- Consider disconnecting the opener. Some homeowners pull the emergency release and unplug the opener so a power surge can’t trigger it while they’re gone. Only do this with the door closed and the spring intact, and remember to re-engage it afterward.
- Ask about bracing kits. Some doors can be reinforced with manufacturer-approved bracing. Don’t improvise a brace with lumber unless it’s part of an engineered kit, since a poorly installed brace can damage the door.
- Photograph the door. A clear “before” photo helps with any later insurance claim.
- Turn off power to the opener if you’re evacuating, and avoid using it during an outage.
Stage 3: After the Storm
- Stay clear of downed power lines and standing water.
- Look before you touch. Check for dents, bent tracks, and displaced panels. See our post-storm checklist.
- Don’t run a damaged door. A bent track can let the door drop.
- Check the opener for water exposure. If water got in, turn off power and have it inspected before use.
- Photograph any damage for your insurance claim, and call us for a written estimate.
Why the Coast Makes This More Important
Salt air weakens hardware year-round, and a door that’s been quietly corroding for years is less prepared for wind load than one that’s been maintained. That’s the core reason we recommend inspecting before the season rather than waiting. Read the full explanation in our coastal corrosion guide, and our seasonal maintenance checklist covers what to check throughout the year.
What Wind-Rated Doors Do Differently
Wind-rated doors use reinforced panels, stronger tracks and hardware, and are tested against wind pressure. They aren’t required by South Carolina code the way they are in South Florida’s high-velocity zones, but if you live within a few miles of the water, they’re worth serious consideration. Typical cost is $2,200-4,500 for a single door installed. Some insurers offer discounts for wind-mitigation features, so ask yours directly.
Cost of Preparing
Preparing is cheap compared with repairing. A maintenance visit runs about $100-180, a spring replacement $200-500, and track repair $150-300. See our cost guide.
Quick Printable Version
- Inspect springs, cables, tracks, rollers, hinges
- Test sensors and auto-reverse
- Replace cracked weatherstripping
- Consider a wind-rated door
- Clear the garage before a storm
- Close and lock the door
- Photograph the door
- After the storm, inspect before using
Frequently Asked Questions
Ideally in late spring, before June 1.
Only with a manufacturer-approved bracing kit. Improvised bracing can damage the door.
Some homeowners do, with the door closed and locked, to prevent surge-triggered operation. It’s a personal choice, and you should re-engage it afterward.
Some insurers offer discounts for wind-mitigation features. Ask your insurer directly.
Only after inspecting it. A door that’s been hit by debris or flexed in high wind can have hidden damage.
Ready to Get Started?
Get your door ready before the season. Call (854) 248-1833 to schedule an inspection.